Wednesday, 27 March 2013

Cooking in Cartagena

After the relative cool of Bogotá and Medellín it was a shock to get off the bus to the sweltering humidity of Cartagena, but it was great to be back on the coast again.

Cartagena is a popular tourist spot for both locals and foreigners, and there's a few things to check out. The main thing being the old town which is surrounded by thick walls to protect it against enemies back in the day. It's a beautiful section of the city to wander around checking out the colonial architecture and all the churches, monasteries, plazas and palaces. It's a self-contained section of history, but of course it's so popular with tourists that it's a bit pricey for us backpackers.






Another tourist spot is Castillo San Felipe de Barajas, which is a fortress on top of a hill. According to the Lonely Planet it's the greatest and strongest fortress ever built by the Spaniards in any of their colonies, and it was never taken despite numerous attempts. Impressive. It was one of the more expensive places to visit though - $17 entry which made me think twice about parting with that much money. That was over half of my daily budget after all! It was an awesome view of the city though, and there are some cool old tunnels that wind all around under the fortress.  






One of the coolest and weirdest experiences was visiting the mud volcano just out of Cartagena. It must be the world's smallest volcano though as it looks more like a tiny hill. You climb up steps leading to the top where you wait your turn to get into the small crater of viscous volcanic mud. Once you're in you can get a massage by one of the locals, otherwise they literally just push you across the top of the mud to the other side. It's the weirdest feeling as the mud is so unbelievably thick that you have to fight to submerge yourself.  I ended up just kind of sitting there with my legs stuck out in front. Everyone had to push each other around to move anywhere so it was a crazy experience. Afterwards you walk down to a lagoon where you wash off, or more likely, you get grabbed by a local woman who then proceeds to make you sit down in the water while she whips your bikini/boardies off and washes them and you clean. An appropriately weird end to the whole experience.






Kat and Cam arrived in Cartagena not long after me, so we ended up organising to get the boat out to Playa Blanca together to spend a few days chilling out on the beach. Of course the morning we left it was absolutely pissing down, so I showed up at the port looking like a drowned rat, carrying my small backpack in a plastic rubbish bag. A very sophisticated waterproofing method. We took the slow ferry there which turned out to be very slow - about 4 hours with a stop at another island so people could visit an aquarium. No thanks. But we eventually arrived and were greeted by a long strip of white sand and blue water. Gorgeous.  We found a place to sleep for the night in hammocks and got down to the important business of swimming, drinking and getting a massage. That first night was pretty miserable though, as it was raining and windy so we all got wet and cold. Needless to say, the next morning we moved further down the beach to another place which was a lot better as the hammock area had a big tarp all around it to protect us from the rain. The owner also cooked some amazing food, so we were happy campers. And thankfully we were away from the crowds who arrived each day, so we had a quiet stretch of beach to swim and soak up the sun. Not a bad way to spend a few days.





After several days the suffocating humidity of Cartagena became too much, so it was time to keep heading north.

Monday, 4 March 2013

Medellín

After an overnight bus from Bogotá on which I froze my ass off due to blasting air-con at arctic temperatures, I arrived bright and early in the second biggest city in Colombia.  Most people know Medellín as the old stomping ground of Pablo Escobar, and where all sorts of killing and fighting went on between Colombia's drug cartels.  It's only fitting then, that one of the most popular things to do in this city is a tour devoted to the man himself.

Escobar was Colombia's most notorious drug lord, and over a couple of hours driving around the city visiting 3 main sites, the guide told my group about his early life, how he rose to power and obscene wealth and controlled cocaine trafficking, and finally his death.  We drove past the massive building he lived in with his family (a 5-storey building with one floor dedicated to 'recreation' and another a nursery for his kids) which has been abandoned for years and still has bullet holes in it and signs of the bombing by the rival Cali cartel; the house where he had been hiding out but was shot and killed by Colombian special forces in 1993; and finally to his grave in a cemetery on the outskirts of Medellín. I'm not a fan of tours, but this one was different and actually really interesting.  There are some tours that say you meet Escobar's brother at the end of the tour, but they charge about 5 times as much and I was sceptical about whether it was actually his brother or not.  Who would ever know?  So I decided not to chance it and went with the regular one.



Escobar's house
His grave
House where Pablo was killed
There's not really a whole lot to do in Medellín, but there were a couple of things similar to Bogotá.  I took a ride up the cable car which actually serves a purpose other than being a good way to view the city - it helps locals commute from their homes on the mountainside into the city at the bottom of the valley.  You get a pretty good view going up, but there's no viewing platform at the top to get out and take photos as it's not built for tourists.  Still, you can get most of the way up for free as it's included in the price of the metro. Bonus.




Medellín is also home to a lot of Botero's works, both in a museum and a whole bunch of his sculptures in a public plaza.  I decided to pass on the museum as we'd already seen a lot of his paintings in Bogotá, so I just wandered around the plaza checking out the sculptures.  I then walked over to a big church/cathedral, but for the first time I can remember I actually felt a bit unsafe so decided I was done for the day.


 


After a few days I'd done all I wanted to in Medellín, so it was time to head north to the coast.